Friday, February 03, 2006

Impressions of Africa

(this post is being written on 28 minutes of internet time, thus no pictures, not too long, and no editing. I simply had to get some thoughts out into the ether while they were fresh in my head)

February 3rd, 6:42 PM

ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK, Northwest Namibia

Leaving our campground at 5PM, we head due West on a single track gravel road that drives straight into the horizon, a dusty brown gravel kicking up around us. The top of the 4X4 is open, and I lean back on the roof, letting the 40kph breeze kick my hair around, whilst keeping my eyes peeled for the variegated flora and fauna that this drive is supposed to reveal to me. I see a springbok (antelope type thing) a herd of giraffes, blue wildebeest, ostriches, jackals and gemsbock. We see flowers that only bloom in the extremely short, yet crucial rainy season that I am currently traveling in. Our guides point out to us the ways in which the entire ecosystem in Etosha is based on things which don't need much water. A sprinbok, I am told, can survive for nearly 4 years without drinking a drop of water. I am astounded.

The further East we drive, the more intense is the rainbow that we head towards. Thoughts of leprachauns and found riches distract me briefly, but my thoughts are inevitably drawn back to the lush greenery that surrounds me.

I have been told that most of the time, this is an arid, dry land. It is a land that is harsh to live in, and even more harsh to travel through, yet all around me there are rare flowers in bloom and the smell of fresh rain on dry land is intoxicating.

We come to the end of a small lane and turn around, it is beginning to cool off and dinner will be soon. As we head back, I am struck by the angry blue-grey clouds which hover menacingly in the West. I can feel the wind coming from them, and know that the nearly horizontal sheets of rain will soon be driving through the corrugated steel and tin sheds of the shanty towns that we passed on our way here. I can't help but think how the people living there will stay dry tonight.

The sun is arrested in the sky, far enough above the horizon that I just have to tilt my head to see it. Slyly, the afternoon sun has directed a burst of light here and there through an imperfection in the upper cloud layer. Of course, the clouds are nothing to be trifled with, and upon discovery of the deceit, the spy hole is once again covered and that spot of land becomes again, shady.

When you view it as a whole, the earth here seems to be covered in a vast green carpet, like a lawn that you may find in a well manicured garden. But, like an impressionist painting, if you are to look but a bit closer you will see that the grass is not full and lush, but is instead comprised of three and four strong stalks of grass, masquerading as a whole. The trees peform a similar illusion, in that while glancing out over the roof of our moving vehicle, you would think that you were in a rainforest. But the clever acacia trees with their biting thorns and delicate flowers have filled in much less space than you initially realized, and to view them closely is to see more of the contrast that this place epitomizes.

My attention is later drawn to a patch of turqouise which asserts itself through the dense fabric of rainclouds. There is such a powerful contrast between the blue-grey thunder clouds and this small robins-egg patch, that it feels like some great magician has drawn back a curtain just a little bit, to let you in on just how much you are missing.

If this is any indication, I am missing worlds.

As we approach our campsite, the horizon seems to stretch out forever. There aren't words big enough to describe Africa, and even if there were, they would be nothing but poor qualifiers, inadequate to descibe all but the most basic of thoughts that this continent evokes.

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

Norm
Well played.
Dont get eaten by any antelopes, I hear they like American flesh better than British.

I am sitting in a very shady arcade on the pictaresque Island of Tenerife. I am doing this in part to avoid everyone here who sucks, but also because I am starting to appreciate solitude. And It got too cold to sit by the water anymore.

I miss you and am starting to get antsy to backpack and be done with school...im starting to see how traveling might be better than so called studying,

Anyways, life is good!

peace,
tovah

Anonymous said...

As I was driving home from the hospital tonight, it appeared that all of Minnesota was covered in a lush green carpet too. But, like an impressionist painting, I looked closer and realized what I was seeing was.... well, essentially an exhaustion-fueled hallucination. Everything here is simply, blindly, white (except the areas that are now slushy gray) and snowy and cold and icy and... well, you get the point; I'm glad you are enjoying Africa's beauty. Dad & I are insanely jealous.

Please don't get gored by the wildlife. I think your health insurance has an exception so it doesn't cover gorings.

love, viv

Anonymous said...

Norm-
I can now turn metal into gold. Thanks for the great read. Good to see you are enjoying Africa. It's an unreal place with kind people and a beautiful environment. Springbok’s, aka as Springer’s can leap over 4 feet in the air from rock to rock. They are the Michael Jordan’s of the safari. Enjoy your trip!
all the best-Mike

Anonymous said...

Hi--We areso proud of you Norman--your writings remind us of Hwmingway with your vivid descriptions and in depth reporting of people--events--environment and most of all your curiousity as to cultures and national habits aswell as almost photographic sentences of the environment and country. Be cautious--enjoy and keep writing

Anonymous said...

Hi Norm,

We just spoke to Viv, and she indicated that you tried to contact Sandra. Here is the cell phone # we have for her (it worked a month ago): 27-72602-4094. She rarely can get to email.

Love reading your blogs! Glad you are having a fantastic adventure.

If you get to see Sandra in Jo-burg, please give her a huge hug for us.

Love & hugs,
Mark & Lisa (and Lucas & Devon)

Anonymous said...

Hey Norman...it's Ellen Savett, your cousin (also afflicted with wanderlust). Ruthanne forwarded a link to your blog, which I've been enjoying immensely. I feel as though I was stuffed in your bag (with peep- and breathing holes), bouncing along on your journeys. I'm about to move to Zurich, Switzerland for an indefinite stretch - if you're heading back through Europe after May 15 drop on by. I'll be in MN this weekend to see the whole fam. I'm sure I'll hear more about you then. Keep on absorbing and enjoying!!